Paradigm@hue: Belur - Heaven of Carvings - Pride of the Hoysala Dynasty

Place Name: Belur

Distance from Bangalore: approx 200 KM from Majestic

Route: Via Nelamangala, Mangalore route, go till Hassan and take Chikmagalur route

Duration: 1 day Trip

Road Condition: Good

Best time to visit: Any time during the year (Tuesday would be a better day for good photography)

My frequent visits to Hassan gave me the opportunity to visit Belur and capture the world’s best carvings. The threatening cyclonic weather was posing a challenge for the visit. However the mild showers and the moderate weather gave me the perfect day for photography. Reaching Belur, I headed towards the very famous Channakeshava temple. The resplendent beauty of the temple reflects through the Gopuram (Entrance of the temple). Upon entering the temple, one can enquire about the guides and engage one, to know more about the interesting history of the temple.

Historians have recorded that Belur was the early capital of Hoysala dynasty. This temple is believed to be one of the finest example of Hosyala Architecture. This was built by King Vishnuvardhana in commemoration of his victory over the Cholas at Talakad in 1117 AD. The grandson of Vishnuvardhana, Veera Ballala II complete the task of building the temple. The splendid architecture took 103 years to be completed. The temple is alluring with intricate carvings and beautiful sculptures and friezes with no portion left blank. The intricate workmanship include Elephants(symbolizing the strength), Lions(symbol of bravery), Horse(symbol of speed). One can also notice the depiction of the Mahabharata and Ramayana epics on the walls of the temple. The carvings of the sensuous dancers(Shilabalikas) captivates the heart. There are 40 odd shilabalikas carvings and each one is distinct from the other. It is The spectacular expression on the face of the Shilabalikas is noticeable. The temple is rich with the age old traditions and is also vaastu compliant. The temple is built in a typical star formation which helps to accommodate lot of sculptors, form a firm grip to the complete temple, and the star represents the Shri Chakra formation.

There is 600 odd carvings of elephants around the temple which is different in action. It is said that these carvings of the temple is an inspiration for the Aksharadhama Temple (New Delhi).

There is a Rangastal inside the sanctorum of the temple, where it is believed that the queen Shantaladevi (wife of Vishnuvardhana) presented her dance before the lord. There are many ornate pillars which is unique in designs and style. The famous carving of the Darpana Sundari (Lady with Mirror) is major attraction and is believed to be inspired by the queen herself.

History believes that the carvings in the temple was under the guidance of Maha shilpi Jakanachari. (Legend says that Dankanachari (son of Jakanachari) found that the main statue of Lord Vishnu was faulty and had frog inside it. Jakana, was shocked to believe this, cut his right hand when it was proved. He vowed to build the other temple and contemplated the task. The old temple is known as Kappechennigaraayas temple.). An interesting feature that one can notice is that one of the pillar which houses almost all the carvings around the temple. It is said that this pillar was built on bearing system and was rotating. However, due to lightning which struck, this cannot be noticed now. The pillars inside are magnificently carved with all different designs. The main Santorum of the temple has the main deity of 12foot long Chennakeshava idol of 8ft which is housed on 4ft of base. The Chennakeshva idol is mesmerizing. The sculptors have taken care to ensure the adequate aeration inside the temple. On a close observation, you can notice that the temple is built on lock and key fashion. The ceiling is fantastically carved with "Ugranarsimha" in the Center.

The depiction of the multistorey building has also been carved ,where you see the space that is been left out in balcony. Sand stone has been used for the sculptures which is said to have been bought from Tumkur. There is one shilabalki inside whose bangle is been sculpted so well, that the bangle can be moved even today. I have tried to capture it with flash and I’m able to see the gap between the hand and the bangle .

Belur is so magnificently built and I see this has the heaven of carvings. I spent almost 3 hours in Belur knowing and exploring the sculptures and have always returned with the state of contentment and appreciating the work of all the sculptors for the wonderful craftsman ship.

Few pics below